Knit Cable Sweater Pattern

Knit Cable Sweater Pattern

A knit cable sweater is a cozy and stylish garment that features twisted stitches that create a three-dimensional texture.

Cable knitting is a technique that involves crossing groups of stitches over each other to create cables of different shapes and sizes.

This article will show you how to knit a cable sweater pattern with headings.

Materials

To knit a cable sweater, you will need the following materials:

  • Yarn: Choose a medium-weight yarn that is suitable for cable knitting, such as wool, acrylic, or cotton. Depending on the size of your sweater, you will need about 1200 to 1500 yards of yarn.
  • Needles: You will need a pair of circular needles or a set of double-pointed needles in the size recommended by your yarn label. You will also need a cable needle, which is a short needle with a bend or a hook that holds the stitches while you cross them.
  • <Stitch markers: You will need some stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and the cable sections.
  • Tapestry needle: You will need a tapestry needle to weave in the ends and sew the seams.

Gauge

Before you start knitting, you should make a gauge swatch to check your tension and adjust your needle size if needed.

A gauge swatch is a small sample of your knitting that measures how many stitches and rows you get per inch.

To make a gauge swatch, cast on about 20 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) for about 4 inches.

Knit Cable Sweater Pattern
You can Knit Cable Sweaters easily.

Then, measure the width and height of your swatch and divide by the number of stitches and rows to get your gauge.

For example, if your swatch measures 5 inches wide and 4 inches high, and you have 18 stitches and 24 rows, your gauge is 3.6 stitches per inch and 6 rows per inch.

The gauge for this pattern is 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch. If your gauge is different, you may need to change your needle size or your yarn weight to get the correct gauge.

A different gauge will affect the size and fit of your sweater, so it is important to match the gauge as closely as possible.

Size

This pattern is written for a woman’s size medium, which fits a bust circumference of 36 inches.

You can easily adjust the size by adding or subtracting stitches and rows, as long as you keep the cable pattern consistent.

The finished sweater measures about 20 inches across the chest and 24 inches from the shoulder to the hem.

Instructions

The sweater is knit in four pieces: the back, the front, and two sleeves. The pieces are then sewn together and the neckband is picked up and knit in the round.

The sweater is knit in stockinette stitch, except for the cable sections, which are knit following a chart. The chart shows one repeat of the cable pattern, which is 16 stitches wide and 16 rows high.

Each square on the chart represents one stitch, and the symbols indicate how to work each stitch. The chart is read from right to left and from bottom to top, following the direction of your knitting.

The odd-numbered rows are the right side of the work, and the even-numbered rows are the wrong side. The cable crossings are only done on the right side rows, and the wrong side rows are worked as they appear (knit the knit stitches and purl them).

The cable symbols are as follows:

  • Blank square: Knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side.
  • Dot: Purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side.
  • Slash: Slip 2 stitches into the cable needle and hold in back, knit 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.
  • Backslash: Slip 2 stitches to the cable needle and hold in front, knit 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Back

  1. Cast on 90 stitches using the long tail cast-on method.
  2. Work in 2×2 ribbing (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 inches, ending with a wrong side row.
  3. Next row (right side): Knit 10, place marker, work 16 stitches following the cable chart, place marker, knit 28, place marker, work 16 stitches following the cable chart, place marker, knit 10.
  4. Next row (wrong side): Purl 10, slip marker, work 16 stitches following the cable chart, slip marker, purl 28, slip marker, work 16 stitches following the cable chart, slip marker, purl 10.
  5. Repeat the last two rows until the piece measures 14 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
  6. Shape armholes: Bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every right side row 3 times. You will have 74 stitches left.
  7. Continue working as established until the piece measures 24 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
  8. Shape shoulders: Bind off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then bind off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. You will have 22 stitches left for the back neck.
  9. Place the remaining stitches on a holder and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail.

Front

  1. Work the same as the back until the piece measures 20 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
  2. Shape neck: Next row (right side): Work 27 stitches as established, join a new ball of yarn and bind off the next 20 stitches, work to the end of the row as established. You will have 27 stitches on each side of the neck, and two balls of yarn attached.
  3. Working both sides at the same time with separate balls of yarn, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every right side row 8 times. You will have 19 stitches on each side of the neck.
  4. Continue working as established until the piece measures the same as the back, ending with a wrong side row.
  5. Shape shoulders: Bind off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then bind off the remaining 11 stitches on each side.

Sleeves

  • Cast on 42 stitches using the long tail cast-on method.
  • Work in 2×2 ribbing (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 inches, ending with a wrong side row.
  • Next row (right side): Knit 13, place marker, work 16 stitches following the cable chart, place marker, knit 13.
  • Next row (wrong side): Purl 13, slip marker, work 16 stitches following the cable chart, slip marker, purl 13.
  • Repeat the last two rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row 10 times. You will have 62 stitches.
  • Continue working as established until the sleeve measures 18 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
  • Shape cap: Bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every right side row 12 times, then every row 4 times. You will have 10 stitches left.
  • Bind off the remaining stitches and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail.

Finishing

  • Sew the shoulder seams using the mattress stitch.
  • Sew the sleeves to the armholes, matching the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and easing in any extra fabric.
  • Sew the side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.
  • Neckband: With the right side facing and using circular needles, pick up and knit 86 stitches evenly around the neck edge, starting and ending at the center back. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round and join to work in the round.
  • Work in 2×2 ribbing (knit 2, purl 2) for 1 inch.
  • Bind off loosely in a ribbing pattern and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail.
  • Weave in all the ends and block the sweater to the desired measurements.

Conclusion

Overall, you have just completed knitting a cozy and stylish cable sweater that you can wear in any season.

You can now enjoy the fruits of your labor and show off your knitting skills to your friends and family.

To care for your cable sweater, you should wash it by hand in cold water and lay it flat to dry.

Do not wring or twist the sweater, as this could damage the cables and the shape of the garment. You can also use a gentle wool wash or shampoo to keep your sweater soft and clean.

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